On my fourth night in Bombay, memories of the city I grew up in came flooding back in one shining moment.
It's about 10:45 on a Friday evening in the part of town which was formerly peopled with workers of cloth mills. Now, though its home to nightclubs and the assorted gentry of Mumbai.
Me and a friend have stepped out to catch an international act passing through town. The traffic is snaking through roadblocks put up by the police to check for alcohol.
Interestingly, there is not a breathalyzer in sight. Instead I see the hawaldar stick his head into a window, pause for a few seconds and wave the car on. I see we're pushing the state of the biometrics art I tell myself dryly.
As I pull up to the barricade, the inspector looks intently in my direction and yells "If I ever see you here again, I'm going to kick your a*** !" I wonder if we've met. A few seconds I hear clicking of hoofs. And then a young boy riding bareback on a horse, racing past the barricade.
I can't help grinning. This is old school Bombay, right down to the harassed inspector. He tells me, the chap has been up and down this road several times. And been warned for it too. I expect public nuisance or some lofty reason. But what he says stops me in my tracks. Loosely translated from Hindi, he says "Sir, the horse slips on this road. He is, after all, only an animal".
We share silent appreciation for a mute animal working bravely at the hands of a thoughtless handler. The moment passes. The inspector looks at me and waves us on - not bothering to check us. I feel something of value passed between us in that silent moment. Thank you unnamed inspector on Tulsi Pipe Road. For bringing me back home.